Water test · fresh & marine

Aquarium water test - what your readings actually mean.

Type in the numbers from your test kit - ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, silicate, pH - and get a straight answer: what is fine, what to keep an eye on, what needs fixing today. Tell us what lives in the tank and the verdict adapts: nitrate that worries a fish-only tank feeds a planted one.

Free ammonia from pH and temperature
Planted, shrimp, reef targets per tank
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Ranges and sources reviewed on · how the analysis works

Your test results

mg/L
mg/L
mg/L
mg/L
mg/L
mg/L
mg/L
mg/L
mg/L
sg

Leave blank anything you did not test. Ammonia is the total your kit reads, whether the bottle says NH₄, NH₃ or NH₃/NH₄. Values in mg/L (ppm).

Advanced, optional Hardness, temperature and what lives in your tank. The more you tell us, the more precise the verdict: nitrate that is too high for fish is food for a planted tank.
dKH
dGH
°C
dKH
mg/L
mg/L
°C
mg/L
Plants
Who lives there
Your fish prefer
Tank type

Ideal aquarium water parameters

The short answer: ammonia and nitrite at zero in any established tank, and everything else depends on what you keep. These are the ranges the analysis judges against for five typical tanks.

Ideal aquarium water parameters
Parameter CommunityPlanted with CO₂Neocaridina shrimpCaridina shrimpMixed reef (soft, LPS)
NH₄ Ammonia / ammonium (mg/L) 0 0 0 0 0
NO₂ Nitrite (mg/L) ≤ 0.05 ≤ 0.05 ≤ 0.025 ≤ 0.025 ≤ 0.1
NO₃ Nitrate (mg/L) ≤ 25 10–40 ≤ 25 ≤ 20 2–15
PO₄ Phosphate (mg/L) ≤ 1 0.5–3 ≤ 1 ≤ 1 0.02–0.1
SiO₂ Silicate (mg/L) ≤ 2 ≤ 2 ≤ 2 ≤ 2 ≤ 0.5
pH 6–8 5.8–8 6.5–8 5.8–6.8 7.9–8.4
KH Carbonate hardness / alkalinity (dKH) 3–12 2–10 2–8 0–2 7–11
GH General hardness (dGH) 4–16 4–16 6–12 4–6 –
Temp Temperature (°C) 22–28 22–28 18–27 20–24 24–27
SG Salinity (sg) – – – – 1.023–1.026
Ca Calcium (mg/L) – – – – 380–460
Mg Magnesium (mg/L) – – – – 1,250–1,450

Ammonia is total ammonia as a test kit reads it; the analysis actually judges the toxic free ammonia worked out from it, so a small reading can still pass at low pH. Values in mg/L unless stated.

How to read an aquarium water test

Not every number on a test kit carries the same weight. Ammonia and nitrite can kill fish within days and always come first. Nitrate, phosphate and silicate are slower: they decide whether algae or plants win. pH, KH and GH describe the kind of water you keep, and matter mostly when they do not match your livestock or when they swing. The analysis follows the same order, and the overall verdict is set by the worst reading, never by an average.

Ammonia: why pH changes everything

Test kits read total ammonia, the sum of ammonium (NH₄⁺), which is mostly harmless, and free ammonia (NH₃), which burns gills. How the total splits depends on pH and temperature. That is why the analysis converts your reading into free ammonia before judging it, and why it asks for pH:

pH at 25 °CToxic share (NH₃)1 mg/L total becomes
6.50.2%0.002 mg/L
7.00.6%0.005 mg/L
7.51.8%0.017 mg/L
8.05.4%0.051 mg/L
8.515%0.144 mg/L

Above 0.02 mg/L of free ammonia fish are stressed, above 0.05 they are harmed, and shrimp react at half those levels. In an established tank any measurable ammonia is still a warning sign: something is decaying, and a water change that raises the pH turns the harmless part into the toxic one.

Nitrite: the danger of new tanks

Nitrite stops fish blood from carrying oxygen. In a mature freshwater tank it should read zero; from 0.2 mg/L it is a problem and above 1 mg/L an emergency. In a tank that is still cycling it is expected, and the analysis says so instead of raising the alarm. Marine fish tolerate it far better, because the chloride in sea water blocks its uptake.

Nitrate: it depends on the tank

Nitrate is the end product of the cycle. Fish tolerate a fair amount, but it feeds algae, and in a planted tank it is food: too little and plants stall. That is why the target moves with the tank:

TankNitrate target (mg/L)
Fish only, no plants< 20
Planted, no CO₂5 – 30
Planted with CO₂10 – 40
Caridina shrimp< 20
Mixed reef2 – 15
SPS reef1 – 10

Phosphate and silicate: algae fuel

Neither is toxic at aquarium levels, but both feed algae. Without plants, keep phosphate under 0.5-1 mg/L. In a planted tank it is a nutrient like nitrate, and the analysis also checks the balance between the two: when one runs out first, the typical algae of that imbalance follow. Silicate feeds diatoms, the brown dust on glass in new tanks, and only ever earns a warning. In a reef the bar is much lower: phosphate between 0.02 and 0.1 mg/L.

pH, KH and GH

These describe the water rather than its pollution. KH, the carbonate hardness, holds pH steady: under 2 dKH pH can crash overnight. GH, the general hardness, carries the calcium and magnesium shrimp and snails need for shells. The right values depend on who you keep: Caridina shrimp want KH 0-2 and pH under 7, Rift Lake cichlids want the opposite. Tell the analysis who lives in your tank and it judges against their range, and warns you if two of them want incompatible water.

Marine tanks: salinity, alkalinity, calcium and magnesium

Switch to Marine and the form asks for salinity in the basic step and the big three of reef keeping in the advanced one: alkalinity (7-11 dKH), calcium (380-460 mg/L) and magnesium (1250-1450 mg/L). A fish-only tank is judged more leniently on all three and on nutrients; an SPS reef is held to the tightest nitrate and phosphate targets.

Share your results

Every analysis gets its own link, which contains the readings themselves: send it to a friend, your local shop or a forum, and they see the same analysis in their own language. Nothing is stored. With a free account you can also save the readings to your tank to follow them over time, and download a summary image for Instagram or Facebook.

How the analysis works, and its sources

Each reading is compared with ranges for your kind of tank: a base range for the water type and the planting, plus the range of each inhabitant you tick, and the strictest one wins. For pH, hardness and temperature the inhabitants' own ranges replace the generic one, because a Caridina tank at KH 0 is exactly right. The overall verdict is the worst single reading, never an average. Two values are calculated rather than read: free ammonia, from total ammonia, pH and temperature, and dissolved CO₂, from pH and KH.

The ranges are the consensus of hobby practice, cross-checked against the scientific literature where it exists:

  1. Emerson K., Russo R.C., Lund R.E., Thurston R.V. (1975). Aqueous ammonia equilibrium calculations: effect of pH and temperature. Journal of the Fisheries Research Board of Canada, 32(12), 2379–2383.
  2. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (2013). Aquatic Life Ambient Water Quality Criteria for Ammonia – Freshwater. EPA 822-R-13-001.
  3. Lewis W.M., Morris D.P. (1986). Toxicity of nitrite to fish: a review. Transactions of the American Fisheries Society, 115(2), 183–195.
  4. Holmes-Farley R. (2004). Reef aquarium water parameters. Reefkeeping Magazine.
  5. The pH/KH/CO₂ relationship popularised by The Krib, the same one used by our CO₂ calculator.

It is guidance, not a diagnosis: hobby test kits can be off by a colour step, so retest anything surprising before acting.

What are the ideal water parameters for a freshwater aquarium?
Ammonia and nitrite at zero, nitrate under 20-25 mg/L (up to 30-40 in a planted tank), phosphate under 1 mg/L without plants, pH between 6.5 and 7.5 for most community fish, KH 3-8 and GH 4-12. Shrimp, soft-water and hard-water fish shift those ranges, which is why the advanced step asks who lives in the tank.
What are the ideal water parameters for a reef aquarium?
Salinity 1.023-1.026 (about 35 ppt), alkalinity 7-11 dKH, calcium 380-460 mg/L, magnesium 1250-1450 mg/L, pH 7.9-8.4, nitrate 2-15 mg/L and phosphate 0.02-0.1 mg/L, with ammonia and nitrite at zero. SPS corals want nitrate and phosphate at the low end; a fish-only tank tolerates far more.
Is high nitrate dangerous in a planted tank?
Up to a point it is fertiliser: plants in a CO₂-injected tank happily use 10-40 mg/L, and many keepers dose nitrate on purpose. Above 50-60 mg/L it starts to stress fish and shrimp whatever the plants, so the analysis raises a warning from there.
Why is ammonia more dangerous at high pH?
Test kits measure total ammonia, which is split between harmless ammonium (NH₄⁺) and toxic free ammonia (NH₃). The higher the pH and temperature, the bigger the toxic share: about 0.6% at pH 7, 5% at pH 8 and 15% at pH 8.5 at 25 °C. The same reading can be harmless in a soft-water tank and dangerous in a hard-water one.
My nitrite is high in a new tank: is that normal?
Yes. A new tank goes through the nitrogen cycle: ammonia rises first, then nitrite, then both fall to zero as nitrate appears. It usually takes 4 to 6 weeks. Tick "set up less than 6 weeks ago" and the analysis reads your results as a cycling tank.
How often should I test my aquarium water?
Every couple of days while a tank is cycling, weekly for the first months, then every two to four weeks once it is stable, plus whenever fish behave oddly. Reef tanks need alkalinity checked more often, ideally a few times a week.
Is my data stored when I share a result?
No. The share link contains the readings themselves in a short code, so nothing is saved on our side and the same readings always give the same link. If you want to keep a history, create a free account and save the results to your tank.
Try another

Four little maths machines to go with it.

Test, log, see the trend.

Save every water test to your tank and watch ammonia, nitrate and pH over weeks instead of guessing from one reading.

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